The rat studies behind this claim (Lenoir et al.) are real but the extrapolation to humans is much shakier. Rats given intermittent access to sugar show bingeing behaviour, but intermittent access is itself abnormal - it's the restriction and re-access cycle, not the sugar per se, that drives the compulsive behaviour.
The intermittent access critique is valid and worth including in the review. What I think is understudied is the industry intervention angle - tobacco industry consultants were directly hired by food companies in the 80s. That history affects what research got funded and what didn't.
I stopped putting sugar in my tea six months ago and I still think about it. I don't know what that proves but it feels relevant.